Bought a T-Lock part # 5697 for the Traxxas Summit, this will allow me to controll the locking diffs and the 2 speed using only one channel on the Taranis Q7 controller.
The T-Lock was used on the original Summit to save channels it allowed the diff locks to work off one channel. It’s actuall pretty simple, works off a 3 way switch
Switch up 100% all servo off
Switch middle 0 front servo on (locked) A
Switch down -100% rear servo on (locked) B
I want to use the T-Lock a little different. With switch up I wanted all the diffs unlocked and the 2 speed in high gear. Middle 2 speed in low gear, switch down low gear with both diffs locked.
To accomplish this I put the 2 speed servo on A of the T-Lock with a servo reverer in line. On B of the T-Lock I out a Y & plugged both diff servos into the Y
On the Taranis I needed to setup the the switch to control the above, I will be using switch C for this
Input Screen for the Summit on the Taranis
IM8 100% SC
Ch8 100% SC UP
The Tonka Bronco that I bought on ebay showed arrived today. It was in much better condition than the pictures on ebay showed. My original thought was to strip it and repaint it but I have now decided to leave it black and just add some detail like maybe a pinstripe. The side strip were starting to come off so I peeled then off and polished the body up. It needs tail light so I may try and make some, wish I was better at 3D design I could make some. Might be able to find something on Thingverse.
LIke any used car you buy the Summit need a little maintenance. Looked like the pillow block & axle shaft seals were worn out. The seals keep moisture & dirt out of the pillow blocks & axle slides. Replacing the is pretty straight forward. Remove the wheel & hex, remove the pillow block retainers, remove the pillow block balls. Now you can pull the pillow block off the axle. The axle seal is glued to each side of the slider. The seals will be replaced so you can just pull the axle out and let the seal tear. Clean the old seal off and clean the two halves of the old seal. Now slide the new seal down the end with the splines showing. Pull the seal up over the lip, when it’s seated drip a small amount of CA around where the seal meats the shaft. Wipe off excess. Give it a minute or 2 to cure. Slide the axles back together when they are almost together work the end of the seal up over the axle lip. Make sure it’s seated all the way around. Glue as above. Pop the clips off that hold the pillow seals on the blocks. The seal kit comes with seals and new retainers too. Place the seal over the hub, pop the retainer on. The bottom is the same. I use a dry lube for bike chains called Bike Medicine Purple Extreme, it goes on wet the dries so it doesn’t attract dirt and dust. Put the lube on the pillow block ball and the shaft. slide the ball through the seal. Screw the ball back into the A-arm being careful that the seal doesn’t twist, the lube will help with this. Do the same on the bottom. Put the hex back on and secure it and replace the wheel. Repeat on the other side. The progedure is the same for the rear.