Bought a T-Lock part # 5697 for the Traxxas Summit, this will allow me to controll the locking diffs and the 2 speed using only one channel on the Taranis Q7 controller. The T-Lock was used on the original Summit …Continue reading →
The Tonka Bronco that I bought on ebay showed arrived today. It was in much better condition than the pictures on ebay showed. My original thought was to strip it and repaint it but I have now decided to leave …Continue reading →
LIke any used car you buy the Summit need a little maintenance. Looked like the pillow block & axle shaft seals were worn out. The seals keep moisture & dirt out of the pillow blocks & axle slides. Replacing the is pretty straight forward. Remove the wheel & hex, remove the pillow block retainers, remove the pillow block balls. Now you can pull the pillow block off the axle. The axle seal is glued to each side of the slider. The seals will be replaced so you can just pull the axle out and let the seal tear. Clean the old seal off and clean the two halves of the old seal. Now slide the new seal down the end with the splines showing. Pull the seal up over the lip, when it’s seated drip a small amount of CA around where the seal meats the shaft. Wipe off excess. Give it a minute or 2 to cure. Slide the axles back together when they are almost together work the end of the seal up over the axle lip. Make sure it’s seated all the way around. Glue as above. Pop the clips off that hold the pillow seals on the blocks. The seal kit comes with seals and new retainers too. Place the seal over the hub, pop the retainer on. The bottom is the same. I use a dry lube for bike chains called Bike Medicine Purple Extreme, it goes on wet the dries so it doesn’t attract dirt and dust. Put the lube on the pillow block ball and the shaft. slide the ball through the seal. Screw the ball back into the A-arm being careful that the seal doesn’t twist, the lube will help with this. Do the same on the bottom. Put the hex back on and secure it and replace the wheel. Repeat on the other side. The progedure is the same for the rear.
The rain finally stopped long enough this morning and it dried out enough that I could take the Summit for a little test drive. Wanted to get an idea of what the FPV would look like so I threw the …Continue reading →
The Shredder was a great FPV vehicle but it left something to be desired when it came to running trails and offroad. Can’t really fault it for that it was sold as a basher not a crawler/trail rig. On RCGroups …Continue reading →
Found a bad wheel bearing on my 2wd Slash so I ordered a set of Avids from http://avidrc.com/. I chose their Revolutions, they have a rubber seal on one side and a metal seal on the other. You put the …Continue reading →
Took the Rally car to the paint shop today. By this evening everything was painted except the rear spoiler which will get painted tomorrow. Think that is the last step and it will be ready for it’s 1st run. …Continue reading →
I wanted a Rally car but really didn’t want to spend $400 for one. A Rally car is basically a 4wd Slash or they share a ton of parts in common. I already had a Platinum 4wd Slash so I decided to make it into a rally car. Not much to change. the front bumper to the low slung one with the foam and body mounts. Replace the rear body mounts and the rear bumper with the same bumper that is on the Stampede. You will also want some wheels and tires off a Rally car. The best place I found to get the wheels and tires are the ebay liquidators. For about $60 I had all the parts to convert the 4wd Slash to a Rally car. You will also want to get a Rally type body I went with the stock Traxxas Rally body which came in clear so I can use my own paint scheme.